服装设计褶皱拼缝外文文献
Vol. 3 (3), April, 2009
ISSN 1994-9057 (Print) ISSN 2070-0083 (Online)
Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics
(Pp. 62-72)
Sukumar Nachiappan- Lecturer, Textile Engineering Department, Faculty of Engineering, Bahir Dar University, Bahir Dar, Ethiopia.
Email: sugumaraan@https://www.wendangku.net/doc/0f7818922.html,
Gnanavel. P. - Lecturer, KSR College of Technology, Tiruchengode–637 215, TamilNadu, India
Ananthakrishnan, T.- Professor and Head, Department of Textile Technology, Government Sri Krishna Rajendra silver jubilee Technical Institute, Bangalore – 560 001, India
Abstract
Drape of the fabric is its ability to hang freely in graceful folds when some area of it is supported over a surface and the rest is unsupported. Drape is a unique property that allows a fabric to be bent in more than in one direction, When two-dimensional fabric are converted to three-dimensional garment form. In the present study, the effects of sewing of different seam were selected on different fabric and their behaviors were studied. In this study drape of ten fabrics are analyzed with three types of seams and three stitch densities. Sample without seam is a control sample and drape of seamed samples are compared with control sample to analyse the drape behavior of seamed fabrics. This paper presents a fundamental drape analysis of seamed fabrics using drape meter. Drape behavior is determined in terms of drape coefficient. The effect of seams on the drape coefficient and Drape profile has been made. Drape coefficients significantly differs between the fabrics and also between the seam stitch density combinations. Investigating drape on seamed fabrics can improve fabric end use application.
African Research Review Vol. 3 (3), April, 2009. Pp. 62-72
Key words: drape, computer aided design, seam, stitch density, Design of Experiments
Introduction
Drape is an important property that decides the gracefulness of any garment as it is relates to aesthetics of garments (Kaushal Raj sharma and B.K. Behera. 2005). The mechanical properties of fabrics were first studied during the late 19th century by German researchers working on developing airships (Postle, 1998). Drape ability has been regarded as a quantitative characteristic of cloth, and several devices as well as virtual systems have been developed to measure it (Booth, 1968; Jeong, 1998; Stylios and Wan, 1999). Instruments for measuring drape ability have been developed by Chu et al. (1950) and later by Cusick (1965, 1968) using a parallel light source that reflects the drape shadow of a circular specimen from hanging disc into a piece of ring paper at present numerous instruments, ranging from a simple cantilever bending tester to a dynamic drape tester developed for measuring fabric drape. During recent years, the investigation of fabric drape has attracted the attention of many researchers because of the attempts to realize the clothing Computer aided design (CAD) system by introducing the fabric properties, in which fabric drape is the key element. It is obvious that fabrics have to be sewn together for a garment to be formed. The seams of a garment affect the fabric drape greatly (Matsudaira, M. and Yang, M. 2000). It is unrealistic to realize the appearance of a garment system without the consideration of seams and the methods of assembling of fabrics into garments (Jinlian Hu et al, 1997).
When a fabric is draped; it can bend in one or more directions. Curtains and drapes usually bend in one direction, whereas garments and upholstery exhibit a complex three-dimensional form with double curvature. Hence, fabric drape is a complex mathematical problem involving large deformations under low stresses (Postle and Postle, 1993).
A plain seam the most typical seam found extensively in apparel is the simplest type in which a single row of lock stitches joins two pieces of fabrics together. Thus, investigating the effect of a plain seam on fabric drape has a significant value for both the textile and clothing industries. The quantified drapeability of a fabric into a dimensionless value called a “Drape coefficient”, which is defined as the percent of the area from an angular ring
Effect of Seams on Drape of Fabrics
of fabric covered by a vertical projection of the draped fabric (Brand R.H.1964). “Drape co efficient (DC)” the main parameter used to quantify fabric drape (Narahari Kenkare and Traci May-Plumlee. 2005). Though useful, it is insufficient to characterize complex forms such as garments. Stylios and Zhu, 1997 considered that the drape coefficient by itself did not capture the full aesthetic quality of the drape of a fabric.
Drape profile of fabrics with seams provide guidance for garment designs and producers in the apparel industry and improve the understanding of drape properties corresponding to different seam features (Fourt.L and Hollies.N.R.S.1970). Furthermore, we expect that the results will be useful in predicting garment drape with clothing CAD systems.
Different types of seams are used in garment making and also wide stitch densities are employed. Once the fabric is joined with seams possibly its drape configuration would vary.
The product range of textile industry has extended to the garments. Mass production of operational systems and automated sewing is making more and more presence, it is very essential to understand to the change in properties the fabric under goes once it is seamed. This study is an attempt to understand the effects of seams on the drape of fabrics, which is one of key characteristics for apparels and certain draperies.
Methodology
The sample is cut and Stitch like (Radial), ‘+’ mark with 3 different types of seams and 3 different stitch densities. The method of experiment is shown in the flow chart figure 1.
Sewing Thread
Polyester sewing thread is employed to put seam and its quality particulars are,
Thread count (Tex) Ne : (2 x 10) 2/60
Direction of Twist : Z
Types of Seam
The types of seams were selected and in each type, three stitch densities were employed. Fabrics were sewn along the warp and weft direction on a 35cm
African Research Review Vol. 3 (3), April, 2009. Pp. 62-72
square side. Control sample for the test is a piece with no seams. This resulted in 9 treatment combinations.
(1)Plain Seam (S1)
This is the most common seam used in the garment industry. This is easy to make and pliable. It is normally suitable for all types of garments. And, it is suitable for curved locations like armhole. To make this seam we have to place two pieces of fabrics to be joined together right sides facing, matching the seam lines, and we should stitch the seam exactly on the seam line.
(2)Welt Seam (S2)
For constructing this, we should stitch the plan seam and press both seam allowances to one side. Then the inside seam allowance is trimmed to ?”. Then top stitching is done on the right side of the garment by catching the wider seam allowance. This type is normally used on heavy coats.
(3)French seam (S3)
The French seam is stitched twice once from the right side and once from the wrong side. It is the classic seam for sheers and looks best if the finished width is ?” or less. To form this seam, with wrong sides of the fabric together, we should stitch 3/8” from the edge on the right side of the fabric. The seam allowance in trimmed to 1/8” and the seam is pressed well. Then the right sides are folded together with stitched line exactly on the edge of the fold and pressed again. Then the stitches are made ?” from the fold.
Stitch Density
Three stitch densities employed are 5, 4 and 3 stitches per Cm.
Stitch was done on an industrial sewing machine.
Type: Plain Stitch Machine
T1 Stitch Density (5 St/cm)
T2 Stitch Density (4 St/cm)
T3 Stitch Density (3 St/cm)
Testing
Drape test in carried out on cusik’s model drape tester. The drape meter is an optical instrument. It is shown diagrammatically in figure 2. The sample holder consists of flat plates, circular in shape, mounted on a shaft coming through the base of the tester. The plates and the shaft are raised until the overhanging the overhanging portions of the sample no longer touches the
外文文献翻译中性化服装设计
外文文献原文+译文 原文 The study on the design of neuter clothing H ous e W Abstract Social and economic development, social thought, opening up and the progress of science and technology, men and women style presented the diversified pattern of neuter the fuzzy gender differences in style, from the beginning of non-mainstream des ign till n ow has develop ed i nt o on e of the mains t ream fas hi on d es ign style. Fashion brands have launched in recent years, the neutral flavor of fashion, neuter clothing market share of more and more, neutral fashion, with its broad group of sex leads the urban street fashion. Neutralization of free and open way of life style, gave people a comfortable and enjoyable. K ey words: Neut e r; Cl ot hing; Gender roles; Design 1 Introduction The beginning of the 20th century the rise of the feminist movement, make the neutral clothing as a kind of style into the line of sight of people. In the 90 s, the neutral clothing has used by each big brand clothing as one of the fashionable e lement s, s uc h a s dust coa t w i th a ne ut ral style, s ui ts, t-shirt s and j e ans have bec om e people like everyday clothes. Neuter clothing style is a simple, pure; reject all multifarious mincing, personalized style. As a special kind of clothing style, neuter clothing fashion has been intensified in the social life, so it is necessary for us to study the clothing neutralization phenomenon, to study its causes and the development of sociology. This article mainly from the sociological association as well as the relationship between men and women clothing and gender status in the society, which is based on analyzing the change of the study the social basis of the neutral clothing appear; Again from the social system, economic development, cultural trend and fashion designers to the influence of the neutral clothing style, etc., it is concluded that the neuter clothing phenomenon is the development of social consciousness, the sexual role transformation, the new clothing design trends are affecting the results.
【参考文献翻译】服装设计中独特性的表达.doc
英文翻译： The unique expression in fashion design Abstract: With the social progress and people's aesthetic awareness, clothing design requirements are constantly changing, not only beautiful, comfortable, personalized for different purposes, and more and more people started to pay attention the unique design of the clothing. unique expression of the clothing design has something in common, in common, there are three factors most typical one of the means of the use of the plastic arts; is to follow the basic rules of the plastic arts; the pursuit of art content and beauty of form harmony and unity. The face of increasingly fierce competition in society, from clothing unique starting to play to their strengths, so that the costume design perfected. Key words: aesthetic sense; costume design; uniqueness; expression Introduction With the rich substance of social development, improved quality of life, the pursuit of unique clothing is also more than plus strong, the face of the popularity and unity to the mass production of clothing has become a problem to be solved in order to fashion designers. An important design point, then become a unique expression of the costume design costume design costume design unique refers to the characteristics of the presentation of the representative from the clothing on the whole, it is unique content and form unity. China fashion design unique expression as a complete system of disciplines to study the ancient times to now there, but the uniqueness of expression in fashion design is not perfect, therefore, the uniqueness of this study fashion design to express Modern fashion design is of great significance. 1. The unique overview of clothing In short, The unique nature of the clothing is the clothing unique. In a broad sense refers to the presentation of the representative characteristics from the whole of the clothing works, it is one of the unique form and the objectivity of the unity of the unity of content, costume designer on the subjective aspect of creative and clothing subject matter difficult to find words to express, but it is not difficult to make us feel unique style. The unique nature of the clothing, but also refers to the values, artistic characteristics and inherent character of a nation, an era, a genre or a person's clothing in the content and format of the show out. The unique nature of the appearance of the mind, the pursuit of the realm of fashion design in the final analysis is unique in design and positioning, the unique expression of the costume design also reflects the designer's unique creative thinking and the pursuit of art also reflects the distinctive character.
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文献信息： 文献标题：Evolution of Fashion Design in the Era of High-Tech Culture （高科技文化时代服装设计的演变） 国外作者：Galina Mihaleva，C.Koh 文献出处：《International Scholarly and Scientific Research and Innovation》,2016,10(7):2447-2451 字数统计：英文2079单词，11462字符；中文3549汉字 外文文献： Evolution of Fashion Design in the Era of High-Tech Culture Abstract Fashion, like many other design fields, undergoes numerous evolutions throughout the ages. This paper aims to recognize and evaluate the significance of advance technology in fashion design and examine how it changes the role of modern fashion designers by modifying the creation process. It also touches on how modern culture is involved in such developments and how it affects fashion design in terms of conceptualizing and fabrication. By comparing case studies, existing fashion design examples and crafting method experimentations; we then spot patterns in which to predict the direction of future developments in the field. A breakdown on the elements of technology in fashion design helps us understand the driving force behind such a trend. The results from explorations in the paper have shown that there is an observed pattern of a distinct increase in interest and progress in the field of fashion technology, which leads to the birth of hybrid crafting methods. In conclusion, it is shown that as fashion technology continues to evolve, their role in clothing crafting becomes more prominent and grows far beyond the humble sewing machine. Keywords: Fashion design, functional aesthetics, smart textiles, 3D printing. INTRODUCTION It is common knowledge that the environment we live in greatly influences the
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文献出处：A Dehghani. The application of digital printing in fashion design [J]. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2015, 16(2): 263-271. 原文 The application of digital printing in fashion design A Dehghani Abstract The appearance of digital printing for textiles printing provides a new train of thought, digital printing with the current textile fabric printing a variety of requirements of the market of printing technology, including high quality printing precision, high efficiency of printing on reaction time and the printing of the diverse demand, these advantages directly promoted the digital ink jet printing in the rapid development of textile fabric printing direction. In this paper, the design method of the digital printing design of different style and means of decoration and design method in the fabrics for summary, it is concluded that digital printing design cuttings in fabric printing, clothing apparel printing method and the application of the traditional fabric secondary design and decorative effect. Through the above research, digital printing and garment design and garment style between the relationships between the shapes, thereby further to bring into full play the advantages of
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参考文献 [1]李平.面料再造的艺术表现力[J].服装设计师,2009，10 [2]艺术与设计[J].2011.05 [3]马慧颖,肖圣颖.浅谈环保主义影响下的服装设计[J].才智，2009，06 [4]李苏君,彭景荣.三宅一生与解构主义服装[J]. 美与时代2010, 01 [5]余建春.服装市场调查与预测[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2002 [6]服装设计师.月刊.[J] .服装设计师杂志社，2008.01 [7]肖文陵，李迎军．服装设计[M].北京：清华大学出版社,2006 [8]许星．服饰配件艺术[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2005 [9]罗森.魅力先生[J].青年与社会,2006，04 [10]李霞云.服装造型设计[M].上海：上海纺织工业专科学校，2008 [11]刘瑞璞．服装纸样设计原理与技术(男装编)[M].中国纺织出版社,2003 [12]尹定邦.设计学概论[M].衡阳:湖南科学科技出版社,2001.10 [13]原研哉. 设计中的设计[M]，济南：山东人民出版社，2006 [14]吴静芳. 服装配饰学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2004.1 [15]刘元凤. 服装设计学[M]，北京：高等教育出版社，2005 [16]肖文陵.李迎军．北京：服装设计[M]. 北京：清华大学出版社.2006 [17]谢锋.时尚之旅（第二版）[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2007 [18]李采姣.时尚服装设计[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2007 [19](美)多丽丝·普瑟.穿出影响力[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2006 [20]袁利.打破思维的界限[M]. 北京：中国纺织出版社,2005
中国服装设计师品牌的现状分析
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并未创立自己的设计师品牌，创立品牌的只有70名。 表1 十佳时装设计师创立品牌的情况 数据来源：中国时尚品牌网、中国服装设计师协会。 在查阅资料统计数据时，发现没有创立品牌的设计师大部分是一直在为国内外知名服装品牌做职业设计，少部分的设计师是自由职业，例如为企业服务，兼任服装设计教师等等。 2.十佳时装设计师品牌以成衣为主 根据服装生产的批量不同可将设计师品牌分为成衣和 高级定制两类。根据表1十佳时装设计师品牌创立情况，五位设计师创立了两个设计师品牌。故分析对象为70位十佳 时装设计师创立的75个设计师品牌。 表2 十佳设计师品牌经营模式的情况 数据来源：百度百科、中国时尚品牌网。 根据表2可知，我国服装设计师品牌经营模式以成衣为主，比例高达80%，但高级定制的比例也不算太低。之所以成衣分布大，主要是成衣经营模式符合大众，成衣大量生产，同一款式可适合不同的顾客，同时成衣品牌的价位相对较低，能占有广泛的市场。随着社会发展，经济不断的增长，人们的收入随之增多，消费者的追求不断提高，对高级定制模式
服装英语论文
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毕业论文文献综述 中国传统服饰在现代服装中的设计应用
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目录 第一章绪论 1.1研究背景 1.2研究目的 1.3国内外研究状况 1.3.1国内对中国传统服饰的研究状况 1.3.2国外对中国传统服饰的研究状况 第二章传统服饰文化中唐朝服饰文化 2.1唐朝服饰产生的原因 2.1.1政治繁荣 2.1.2 文化的开放 2.1.3唐皇室固有的胡人心态 2.1.4唐朝社会审美情趣 2.1.5唐朝女权意识的崛起 2.1.6佛教盛行 2.2 唐朝服饰 2.2.1 唐朝女子服饰及其特点 1 女着男装 2着胡服 3 襦裙服 2.2．2唐代大袖衫 第三章唐朝服饰元素的特点及应用 3.1唐朝服饰元素 3.1.1面料 3.1.2款式 3.1.3色彩 3.2现代设计中的应用 第四章对融入西方现代服装设计的中国传统服装元素的分析结语
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