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The Effects of Heat-Setting on the Properties of Polyester or Viscose Blended Yarns

The Effects of Heat-Setting on the Properties of Polyester or Viscose Blended Yarns
The Effects of Heat-Setting on the Properties of Polyester or Viscose Blended Yarns

n Introduction

Moisture in the atmosphere has a great impact on the physical properties of tex-tile yarns and fibres. Relative humidity and temperature decides the amount of moisture in textile materials. Exposing yarn to high moisture during produc-tion generally yields negative results, as well as being undesirable for technical processing. On the other hand, a high degree of moisture adequatelly exposed to yarn improves its physical proper-ties and enables the standard humidty of yarn to be reached. Yarns with lower moisture content than the standard value result in monetary loss in sale. Therefore, conditioning and heat-set is to provide an economical device for supplying the necessary moisture in a short time [1].

Each step in the manufacturing proc-ess, such as twisting, spinning, weaving, knitting etc., causes tension in fiber and yarns. Yarns tend to snarl in order to re-lax themselves and get rid of this tension. Tension and snarling are likely to lead to problems in the following manufactur-ing processes [2]. The purposes of con-ditioning and heat-setting (twist-setting) are to relax yarns, to prevent them from snarling, to enable them to be worked efficiently in the following processes and to fix yarn-twisting. Today, besides con-ventional system, other systems which can eliminate the downsides of the con-ventional systems and operate under

vacuum with saturated steam are used

in conditioning and heat-setting. With

the aid of steaming in these systems,

yarns are conditioned or heat-set with

saturated steam under vacuum [3].

The Heat-setting process, a treatment

with steam under vacuum, improves

efficiency and quality in weaving and

knitting plants by reducing yarn ten-

sion, softening yarns, moisturising them

homogenously, eliminating electrostatic

effects and reducing fly and dust [4].

Unset yarns squeeze bobbins during

dyeing with a pressure from the out-

side section towards the inside section,

as a consequence of which bobbins get

deformed. The higher the temperature

of heat setting is the less the bobbins get

deformed [5]. Improper heat setting is

considered to be a factor which increases

skewness in weaving, a situation in

which warp and weft yarns cannot be tied

together with a right angle, although they

are straight [6], and it increases diagonal

run in knitwear [7].

Since saturated steam used in heat-set-

ting provides man- made fiber with good

thermal conductivity, steaming processes

under vacuum make it possible for bob-

bins to shrink homogenously in every

section. The yarns of such a bobbin are

dyed homogenously without causing

stripe effects or colour differences be-

tween the inner and outer sections of the

bobbin [5].

The blend consisting of PES and viscose

is used widely in the textile industry.

This type of blend benefits from the high

strength of PET fiber and from the natu-

ral qualities, brightness and comfortable

wearing property of viskose fiber. In ad-

dition, viscose fiber has a high elasticity

when compared with cotton fibres. When

used together with PES fibers, viscose

fiber gives a more hormonious blend as

regards elongation at break [8].

Since the tenacity of the wet cotton yarn

is higher than that of dry ones, cotton

yarns have a higher tenacity under high

moisture [9]. Studies concerning heat-

setting are limited in literature and nearly

all of these studies are related to cotton

because of its positive reactions against

moisture. For this reason, the current

study which has been performed on the

heat-setting of yarns consisting of PES/

viscose is expected to make a contribu-

tion to textile literature.

n Experimantal

In this study, 30 tex and 20 tex carded

yarns consisting of 67% PES and 33%

viscose were used - the linear density and

staple length of PES fibres were 1,6 dtex

and 38 mm respectively, and the linear

density and staple length of viscose fibres

were 1.7 dtex and 39 mm, respectively.

Yarns were wound onto bobbins with

a Schlafhorst Autoconer 238 machine.

These yarns were subjected to heat-set-

ting under 630 mmHg pressure and at

temperatures of 90 °C and 110 °C with

a machine working in compliance with

the direct vacuum steaming system of

the Welker Company. The cycles below

were followed:

n Pre-heating : 45 °C

n Vacuum : 630 mmHg

n Heating : 90 °C (10 min),

110 °C (20 min)

n Vacuum balance : 500 mmHg The Effects of Heat-Setting

on the Properties of Polyester/Viscose Blended Yarns

S?bel Sardag,

Ozcan Ozdem?r,

*Isma?l Kara

Department of Textile Engineering,

Uludag University,

G?rükle, Bursa 16059, Turkey E-mail: sibels@https://www.wendangku.net/doc/fa8091522.html,.tr

*Can Textile, Corlu, Tekirdag, Turkey Abstract

30 tex and 20 tex yarn bobbins consisting of 67% PES - 33% viscose were subjected to heat-setting at 90 °C & 110 °C, and under a pressure of 630 mmHg in order to investigate the effects of heat-setting conditions on the properties of twisted yarns. Both heat-set and unset yarns were dyed. The tensile strength properties (tenacity and elongation at break) of each yarns were measured before heat-setting, after heat-setting and after dyeing. The inner, middle and outer sections of the yarn bobbins were measured with a spectrophotometer to find differences in color. As a result, heat-setting and dyeing processes were found to be effective in the tenacity and elasticity of yarns.

Key words:heat setting, twist setting, twisting, temperature, polyester (PES), viscose, tenacity, work of rupture.

Yarn bobbins were dyed in a Mini-HT laboratory-type bobbin dyeing machine produced by Dilmenler Machinary In-dustry. The dyeing process was carried out according to the conventional two-step dyeing method. PES fibres were first dyed with disperse dyes at 130 °C, and they were then subjected to reductive clearing at 75 °C. In the second step, vis-cose fibres in the blend were dyed with reactive dyes at 80 °C, and then after-treatments (washings) for reactive dye-ing were performed. Finally, the bobbins were dried on a radio frequency drier.

Yarn count, twist and tenacity measure-ments of the yarns were taken before and after heat-setting and after dyeing. Before the measurements were taken, all the yarns were kept under standard con-ditions. (at 20 °C ± 2 °C and 65% ± 2% relative humidity) Yarn count measure-ments were carried out in compliance with ISO 2060. Yarn twist measurements were taken in accordance with ISO 2061 on a James H.Heal twisting meter. Te-nacity measurement of all the yarns was performed in accordance with ISO 2062 on Uster Tensorapid 3.

A spectrophotometer was used to find out whether inner, middle and outer sections of the bobbins had any differ-ences in colour. Measurement was made with an observational angle of 10° and with D65 illuminant, using the CMC 2:1 equation [10]. To investigate the effects of heat-setting and dyeing properties on the yarn tenacity and elongation at break, t tests were performed at 5% (0.05) and 10% (0.1) level of significance .

n Results and discussion

The effects of heat-setting at 90 °C and 110 °C, and of the following dyeing proc-ess on the tenacity and elasticity proper-ties of 20 tex and 30 tex yarns are given in Table 1.As can be seen in Figure 1, the heat-set

process brought about a considerable

improvement in the tenacity of yarn. The

rate of increase varied between 15% and

19.9%, depending on the yarn count and

temperature of the process (Table 1). The

tenacity of yarns, subjected to heat-set

showed a decrease of 4.4 – 11.3% after

the dyeing process; however, their yarn

tenacity was still higher than the tenacity

of unset yarns.

In textile material science, a classic and

fundamental problem is the connec-

tion between the tensile properties of

fibers and yarns. A yarn is a complex

system made by a fibrous structure, i.e.,

a bundle consisting of a given number of

single fibers; this bundle, after twisting,

becomes a yarn. [11] The improvments

observed in the tenacity of PES/viscose

yarns after heat-setting can be an attrib-

uted to the effects of this thermal process

on PES fibers, which constituted 67%

of the blend. The physical and chemical

properties of fibers such as dye absorp-

tion, strength etc. are close related to the

structure of non-crystalline sections. Due

to the temperature of the heat-setting

applied, the rate of crystalline sections,

the average distance between crystalline

centers and the number of bonds between

macromolecules in fibres increased, as a

consequence of which the degree of ori-

entation in fibres increased, causing an

improvement in the yarn tenacity [12].

The slight decrease in the yarn tenacity

after the dyeing process was something

expected. This fall arose from the fact

that especially viscose fibers and partly

PES fibres get slightly damaged dur-

ing reductive washing with NaOH. The

t-tests we performed show that heat- sett-

ing and dyeing process affect the tenacity

of yarns.

The effects of heat-setting at 90 °C and

110 °C and of dyeing on the elongation

% of yarn are given in Figure 2 .

The heat-setting processes increased

the values of yarn elongation within the

range of 5.4% and 8.7%. Since cellulose

macromoleculles, which form regener-

ated cellulose fibres, are short, the att-

raction between these macromollekules

was not very strong. Therefore, when a

force parallel to the fiber axis was app-

lied to the regenerated cellulose fibers,

bonds between the macromollecules

weakened, causing the fibers to break.

Breakages of wet regenerated fibres took

place more easily because of the swell-

ing and sliding effects of water [12, 13].

Consequently, the elongation values of

the wet regenerated cellulose fibers were

noticeably higher than those of dry ones.

Generally, the tenacity values decreased,

but elongation values (%) increased,

while these fibres were wet [9 - 13]. The

increase observed after the application of

heat-setting in the elongation (%) values

of the yarn fell a little after the dyeing

process. However, the elongation values

(%) obtained after the dyeing process are

still higher than those of the unset yarns.

The heat-setting process improved both

the tenacity and elongation (%) of these

yarns. The t tests performed indicate that

heat-setting and dyeing processes aff-

ected the elongation (%) of the yarns.

After heat-setting, the work of rupture

values of the yarns increase by 12 -15%,

and, as a result of this, these yarns were

expected to show a higher performance

in the following process. These values

Table 1. Changes in yarn tensile strength properties after heat-setting and dyeing process.

Parameters

Yarn properties

After heat-setting

(Changes as %)

After dyeing

(Changes as %)

30 tex 20 tex 30 tex 20 tex

90 °C110 °C90 °C110 °C90 °C110 °C90 °C110 °C

Tenacity, cN/tex X 15.0 19.916.915.7-4.4-4.8-11.3-9.5 CV %-14.3-15.813.612.3 9.316.7 -6.9-5.5

Elongation at break, %X 8.9 8.7 8.7 5.4-3.0-5.7 -6.0-3.7 CV %-20.7-25.511.8 8.8 3.211.4 -7.7-6.5

Work of rupture, cN X 15.0 12.413.612.9-4.3-5.5 -4.8-4.5

CV %-13.9-14.118.716.9 4.38.9 -8.8-8.0

F?gure 1. The effect of the heat-setting

process on tenacity of yarn.

F?gure 2. The effect of the heat-setting

process on elongation at breake of yarn.

decreased by 4 - 6% after the dyeing process (Figure 3). Increases obtained after heat-setting at 110 °C were lower than those obtained after heat setting at 90 °C. The increase observed in the work rupture value of the yarns decreased a little because of reductive washing in the dyeing process but this value was still higher than that of the unset yarns . Work of rupture can be considered to be the working capacity of the yarn. Work-ing capacity is the most important value which showed the yarn performance in the following processes. The work capacity of a yarn corresponds to the area below the stress-strain curve and expresses the behavior of the yarn dur-ing subsequent treatment. Therefore, it is suggested that increases in the tenacity and elasticity of the yarn should not be assessed individually, but together with its work capacity [3]. The CV % values which belong to te-

nacity, elongation

and work of rupture of 30 tex and 20 tex yarns are given

in Table 1. While 30 tex yarn showed decreases in tenacity, elongation at break (%) and work of rupture, CV % values after heat- setting at 90 °C and 110 °C, 20 tex yarns showed increases in these CV% values. The tenacity of

the yarn decreased and tenacity CV% values increased as the yarn got thinner. Tenac-ity CV%

values of 30 tex yarn were increased after dyeing, however they were lower than those of the unset yarns. The tenacity CV% values of 20 tex yarn were decreased after the dyeing process, but they were high when compared with the values obtained before heat-setting.Twisted yarns tend to untwist. When twisted yarn tension is slackened (which occurs at their unwinding from pack-ages), the yarns usually get coupled as loops and

twisted in reverse direction forming snarls which lead to breakeges during furter yarn processing. When wo-ven into fabrics, snarlings cause faulty and lower grade fabrics. Therefore, yarns needs heat setting in order to prevent un-twisting and snarling [14].Twisted yarns which were subjected to the setting processes underwent some changes in their interior structure, as a result of which resilient and elastic de-formations were able to take place and the macromolecules of the yarn able to change from a curved to a straight shape. At the same time, the monofilaments could have become somewhat elongated and come to occupy a position in which they would follow a helical path without stresses, as the elastic forces would be suppressed.The straightening of macromolecules led to yarn elongation, but elastic forces tend-ed to shorten them. As a result, there was the possibilty that yarn length might re-main unchanged, but due to the suppres-sion of elastic forces, the stresses in yarns could have almost disappearred [14].Viscose yarns featured high hygroscopic-ity, good adsorbency, and swelling. Swelling of viscose yarns was accom-pained by an increase in yarn cross sec-tion by 25 - 65% and an insignifficant increase by 3-5% in fibre length [9, 14]. The cause of this change is that cellulose macromolecules which form viscose fibres shorten and the rate of the amorphous part of fibre is high [13]. The weakening of intermolecular ties fascili-tate an easier shift of molecules. In this case, the moisture acted as a lubricant. Heat intensified the motion of molecules, reduced the forces of intermolecular effect and their shift became easier. As twisted yarns were heated in swelled state (i.e. stressed state) the macromol-ecule shift occured quicker.If twisted yarn swelled in a free state, its cross section increased and the ori-entation of yarns remained unchanged, a shrinkage of yarn could be observed with a certain reduction in its strength. The yarns were stretched in a swelled state to increase their strength [14].The setting of twist in case of polyester yarns was accomplished only by heating but without swelling of yarns. By mois-tening the twisted yarns, having a stabi-lised twist in the free state, the reverse process of deformation relaxation took place which imparted the capacity of spontaneous untwisting to the yarn[14].Changes in the yarn’s linear density and twist as a result of heat- setting are given in Table 2.As it can be seen in Table 2 slight chang-es took place in the twisting values of the yarn after heat-setting. This process fixed yarn twisting and eliminated yarn liveli-ness, thus preventing snarling. Thus, we were able to enhance the performance F?gure 3. The effect of the heat- setting process on work of rupture of yarn.Table 2. Linear density and twist measurements of 30 tex and 20 tex PES/viscose yarns after heat- setting.Parameters Yarn properties 30 tex 20 tex Heat-set at 90 °C Heat-set at 110 °C Heat- set at 90 °C Heat-set at 110 °C Pre-heat setting tex 29.429.419.619.6t.p.m.963959960964Post-heatsetting tex 30.130.420.020.2t.p.m.940930934935Changes as %tex 2.4 3.4 2.1 3.1t.p.m.-2.4-3.0-2.7-3.0Post dyeing tex 31.231.620.620.8t.p.m.919915920922Changes as %tex 3.7 3.9 3.0 3.0 t.p.m.-2.2-1.6-1.5-1.4Table 3. The results of color measurements made on 30 Tex and 20 Tex PES/Viscose yarns.Yarn count Unset, ΔE Heat-set at 90 °C, ΔE Heat-set at 110 °C, ΔE inner-outer middle-outer middle-inner inner-outer middle-outer middle-inner inner-outer middle-outer middle-inner 30 tex 0.180.190.180.140.150.170.190.190.1720 tex 0.160.180.180.160.160.170.150.20

0.21

of the yarn in the following production processes by means of twist setting.

The heat-setting of man-made yarns un-der vacuum with saturated steam, besides reducing the residual shrinkage, resulted in no dye variations in the fabric, no tube buckling and no quality changes between the inner and outer sections of the bobb-in [5]. The measurements performed, as given in Table 3, show that no consider-able differences in colour among the inner, middle and outer sections of the bobbins existed.

The spectrophotometer gave a PASS value in each of the measurements, in-dicating that the bobbins did not have an unacceptable difference in color among the inner, middle and outer sections. The color difference value which came out after the dyeing of the yarns subjected to heat-setting at 90 °C was lower than the values which came out when the yarns were subjected to heat-setting at 110 °C, and those not subjected to heat- setting and dyed. However, the values of colour differences which exist among the inner, middle and outer sections of the fixed and non-fixed bobbins are very close to each other and, therefore, they can be consid-ered insignificant.

n Conclusions

In this study, tenacity, elongation at break (in per cent), and work of rupture of 30 tex and 20 tex yarns were found to be enhanced due to heat-setting. The tenacity and elongation at break values of the yarns decreased after dyeing; howev-er, these values are still high when com-pared with those of the pre- heat setting.

The increase of temperature from 90 °C to 110 °C caused a decrease in the strength values of the yarns. For this reason, heat- setting at 90 °C can be considered to be sufficient to enhance the strength proper-ties of PES/viscose yarns – consisting of 67% PES and 33% viscose.

After heat-setting, slight changes were observed in the twist values of the yarn. Yarn twist was fixed via heat- setting, thus preventing yarn snarling. As a result of these, the yarn is likely to show better performance in the following produc-tion steps. Besides, colour differences among the inner, middle and outer sec-tions of bobbins were found to be insig-nificant after the measurements. For furter studies it will be useful to

investigate yarn liveliness and the re-

lationship between yarn liveliness and

heat-setting .

Acknowledgments

The authors wish to thank the authorities of

CAN Textile for the opportunities they have

provided and Dr.Mehmet Kan?k for very

useful discussions.

References

1.O zdemir O.,?arda? S., Yarn Conditioning

and New Methods, Textile&Technique,

Turkey, June 2004, pp. 248-260.

2.w ww.welker.de/html/englisch/

heatsetting.html., 2004.

3.T oggweiler P., Gleich S., Wanger F.,

Improved Quality With The Contexxor

Conditioned Yarn, Meiland English No. 9

(1995) pp. 154-155.

4.X orella catalogue, 2003.

5.X orella Contexxor, The Innovative Con-

ditioning and Steming System, 2003

catalogue.

6.Y azdi A. A., Woven Fabric Skewness and

Yarn Twist., Proceedings of 2nd Interna-

tional Istanbul Textile Congress, pp.1-7.

[CD-ROM] April, 2004 .

7.A rtzt P., The Influence of Different Spin-

ning Processes on The Structure and

Properties of Yarns, Proceedings of 2nd

International Istanbul Textile Congress,

pp.1-8. [CD-ROM] April, 2004.

8.E nhos S.A., An Investigation About the

Factors Affecting the Strength Properties

of Blended Yarns, Master thesis, Univer-

sity of Uludag, Bursa 2001., pp.73.

9.A danur S., Wellington Sears Handbook of

Industrial Textiles, Technomic Publishing

Co.Inc. Lancaster.-Basel., 1995, pp.

593-594.

10.K ara I., An Investigation About the Effects

of the Twist Setting Conditions, Final

Year Project, University of Uludag, Bursa,

2002.

11. A humada O., Cocca M., Gent?le G.,

Martuscelli E., D’oraz?o L., Uniaxial

Tensile Properties of Yarns: Effect of

Moisture Level on the Shape of Stres-

Strain Curves, Textile Research Journal

174 (11) 2004,1001-1006.

12.T arakc?oglu I., Textile Finishing and

Machines –Production and Finishing

of Polyester Fibres; Arac?lar Publishing

Co.Izmir, 1986, pp. 414-416.

13.M orton W.E., Hearle J.W.S., Physical

Properties of Textile Fibres; Heineman,

1975,pp.290.

14.U senko V., Processing of Man-made

Fibres, 1979 , Moscow, pp. 178-189.

Received 10.05.2006 Reviewed 26.01.2007

U N I V E R S I T Y

OF BIELSKO-BIA?A

Faculty of Materials

and Environmental Sciences

The Faculty was founded in 1969 as

the Faculty of Textile Engineering of the

Technical University of ?ód?, Branch in

Bielsko-Bia?a. It offers several courses

for a Bachelor of Science degree and a

Master of Science degree in the field of

Textile Engineering and Environmental

Engineering and Protection. The

Faculty considers modern trends in

science and technology as well as the

current needs of regional and national

industries. At present, the Faculty con-

sists of:

g The Institute of Textile

Engineering and Polymer

Materials, divided into the follow-

ing Departments:

g Physics and Structural Research

g Textiles and Composites

g Physical Chemistry of Polymers

g Chemistry and Technology of

Chemical Fibres

g The Institute of Engineering and

Environmental Protection, divid-

ed into the following Departments:

g Biology and Environmental

Chemistry

g Hydrology and Water Engineering

g Ecology and Applied Microbiology

g Sustainable Development

of Rural Areas

g Processes and Environmental

Technology

University of Bielsko-Bia?a

Faculty of Materials

and Environmental Science

ul. Willowa 2, 43-309 Bielsko-Bia?a

tel. +48 33 8279 114, fax. +48 33 8279 100

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●I wonder if it’s because I have been at school for so long that I’ve grown so crazy about going home. ●It is because she wasn’t well that she fell far behind her classmates this semester. ●I can well remember that there was a time when I took it for granted that friends should do everything for me. ●In order to make a difference to society, they spent almost all of their spare time in raising money for the charity. ●It’s no pleasure eating at school any longer because the food is not so tasty as that at home. ●He happened to be hit by a new idea when he was walking along the riverbank. ●I wonder if I can cope with stressful situations in life independently. ●It is because I take things for granted that I make so many mistakes. ●The treasure is so rare that a growing number of people are looking for it. ●He picks on the weak mn in order that we may pay attention to him. ●It’s no pleasure being disturbed whena I settle down to my work. ●I can well remember that when I was a child, I always made mistakes on purpose for fun. ●It’s no pleasure accompany her hanging out on the street on such a rainy day. ●I can well remember that there was a time when I threw my whole self into study in order to live up to my parents’ expectation and enter my dream university. ●I can well remember that she stuck with me all the time and helped me regain my confidence during my tough time five years ago. ●It is because he makes it a priority to study that he always gets good grades. ●I wonder if we should abandon this idea because there is no point in doing so. ●I wonder if it was because I ate ice-cream that I had an upset student this morning. ●It is because she refused to die that she became incredibly successful. ●She is so considerate that many of us turn to her for comfort. ●I can well remember that once I underestimated the power of words and hurt my friend. ●He works extremely hard in order to live up to his expectations. ●I happened to see a butterfly settle on the beautiful flower. ●It’s no pleasure making fun of others. ●It was the first time in the new semester that I had burned the midnight oil to study. ●It’s no pleasure taking everything into account when you long to have the relaxing life. ●I wonder if it was because he abandoned himself to despair that he was killed in a car accident when he was driving. ●Jack is always picking on younger children in order to show off his power. ●It is because he always burns the midnight oil that he oversleeps sometimes. ●I happened to find some pictures to do with my grandfather when I was going through the drawer. ●It was because I didn’t dare look at the failure face to face that I failed again. ●I tell my friend that failure is not scary in order that she can rebound from failure. ●I throw my whole self to study in order to pass the final exam. ●It was the first time that I had made a speech in public and enjoyed the thunder of applause. ●Alice happened to be on the street when a UFO landed right in front of her. ●It was the first time that I had kept myself open and talked sincerely with my parents. ●It was a beautiful sunny day. The weather was so comfortable that I settled myself into the

英语句子结构和造句

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