Tory Burch handbook
Wanda Cheung
APPOINTED SUPPLIERS
*** Appointed supplier by TB (including all H/W suppliers and Italy tanneries etc…)***
- Factory should place bulk order with TB appointed suppliers within 3 days after receiving our order confirmation.
- Factory should manage the delivery and quality with suppliers closely and directly.
- If factory cannot get any positive response or delay reply from our appointed suppliers, please ask TB HKO help within 3 days instead of just report to TB HKO while bulk or additional samples delivery is going to be delayed. Factory has the responsibility to maintain the agreed delivery without fail and this i s factory’s duty to monitor the material delivery in accordance to their production schedule.
- For hardware, in order to consolidate the same finishing on the whole group for all styles, please MUST order all hardware to the same supplier, NEVER to order from different suppliers.
- Magnetic snaps are factory’s o wn source but factory need to submit test report for TB HKO for confirmation.
SAMPLE REQUIREMENT
Post market sample (PMS)
Definition : sample with revisions requested after market
- by using salesman materials (unless special request)
- will return to factory after NY review, but factory must submit TB HKO last
approved PMS while sending pp sample for approval
- FOC
Additional samples (AD sample)
Definition : base on sample request on the additional sample list to arrange samples for photograph and advertising
- based on approved construction and size of post market sample
- factory should order the materials together with bulk or by SMS leftover Material (depends on TB final request)
- same as FOB price
- Send invoice to TBHK during the AD sample arrive to TB HKO.
All US, EU, Celebrity, LA VIP and London - bill to TBHK
All the other destination - bill to TBFE
Pre-production sample (PP)
Definition : sample to represent bulk production, everything must be corrected as requested in BOM and last PMS comments
- all materials should be pull out from bulk
- all pp samples to be proceeded by die cut
- pp samples need to send us all color absorbed in the same group
- factory only can proceed the bulk after got our final approval or CNP to bulk On pp sample.
- NY will return the pp sample to HKO for checking. It will be signed back to factory, except NY request the revise PP.
ALL PMS/PP samples need to store your factory at least 3 years, please reserve
a store room and make sure keep them clear and tidy, you may need to send us those sample if necessary.
- FOC
Shipment sample
Definition : random pull out from bulk production and represent all bulk quality, it should not affect the order units.
- with all packaging as bulk.
- all bulk shipment samples in all style and per official PO.
- all above samples will be pulled out and sealed by our China inspector. Factory need to keep all shipment sample until we ask for return, normally
it will keep around 1 year.
- FOC
General Standard
Hardware standardize
1. Screw direction is 45 degree oblique to northeast, as image
2. Tory Burch embossed should read from top to bottom, as image
Inside leather patch under inside l ogo plaque for all styles should have 1/8” showing total (1/16” between edge and stitch and 1/16” between stitch and logo plaque as below image).
It will be start from Hol/Res ’13 BULK production and Spring ’14 development.
Binding conjunction standard
if the bag with handles, the binding conjunction behind the front handle as image
if the bag without handle, the binding conjunction on gusset as image
Magnetic snap
It will accept the mag snap without wording plain as image only.
New construction for inside of card holders
Inside the foremost card holder we could see an open lining edge in the old construction. This lining panel must be enlarged so that the open edge can fit
into the bottom seam of the card holder panel. Pls refer as well to below pictures.
Stopper on metal zipper and nylon zipper
All HB & SLG (whatever metal zipper or nylon zipper)
- For metal zipper : it should have top and end stopper, and the color match the zip slider
- For nylon zipper : it use end stopper only, and the color match the zip slider - For plastic zipper : it should have top and end stopper, and the color match the zipper teeth
Zipper Slider
Started from Fall 13 Production, as advised before the #5 Everbright metal zipper, ZF1 new slider with puller lock function should be used, please see below the corresponding codes of necessary parts:
ZIPPER –
5RGP (Brass) /5RNP (Nickel) Same as previous seasons
SLIDER – 5M ZF1 (OU2 or KQ finish for Brass / PC2 for Nickel colour) NEW
Other metal and nylon zipper remind unchanged.
C/O label
A. Regular order use: "Made in China" or "Made in
with the company code and delivery which is start from Fall 13
Outlet order use: "TBO China" label
Butterfly c/o label
B. c/o label placement
- need obvious show when open the bag
- it cannot use glue to stabilize the label before actual sewing.
Hangtag
hangtag placement as below:
- for Handbag : shall be hang on the left-hand side of back handles or shoulder straps towards to back panel (the front panel of hangtag is facing towards to
outside )
- for SLG - wallet type : shall be put into inside compartment
- for SLG - belt : shall be hanged on the buckle of belt
- for SLG - cosmetic case or small bag : shall be hang on the left-hand side of back panel (except Japan units, it must put into inside compartment)
** important : make sure the point from the plastic string place carefully which should not damage or get indent the bag after packed
Regular packing information
Reference number and details, please see Appendix 8.
GENERAL RULES
Materials composition
- Factory need to provide correct material composition, product size, product net weight, material filler & content thickness if coating to TB HKO on or before 60 days prior of delivery
Components under Fish & Wildlife
-Whenever we are working in components that fall under Fish & Wildlife, supplier has responsibility to advise the necessary data on the component and let us review it
with logistics to understand the limitations we are under in the development cycle.
So if you are using a plant or animal element that is new, it needs to be
reviewed and confirmed with the our Logistics team. The basic elements for review needed are:
Common name of plant/animal in English
Scientific name of same in Latin
Country of origin
Method of harvest: farmed or taken from the wild
Many things fall under these regulations: shells, wood, horn, grasses, exotic animals.
If there is any uncertain material that required declaration or not, factory need to Check with TB HKO Merchandising Team within one week time after receiving
The bulk order.
If any late checking which caused production is delayed, factory need to Responsible for any late penalty or air freight cost.
Testing standard and enquiry
- Materials composition test report upon request(Please use the
new application form as attached)
- all physical and chemical test must be in accordance to our general performance manual issued by our TB HKO Technical Department
(this test must be preformed by ITS Hong Kong)
- No product can ship if failure in the test
-All the materials must be in compliance with REACH and California Proposition 65 testing requirement.
-Any material testing which failed in the ITS testing is the responsibility of supplier who supplying the non-qualified material and the testing fee must be paid by supplier with no doubt.
-When material is failed in Chemical requirements, supplier must immediately
re-make the material and proceed re-testing. Since the 1st failed test was paid
by supplier, TBHK will pay for the re-test if it can be passed otherwise it will be supplier’s responsibility to the re-testing fee. Please be reminded that the unqualified materials CANNOT be used in production.
-When material is failed in Physical requirement, supplier should put the material on hold until our Technical Team finished reviewing the test result and confirm the next step. Please be reminded that the materials CANNOT be used in production until receiving our further confirmation.
-This testing fee rules is not applicable for any material purchasing from appointed tannery located EURO/South America. TBHK will be responsible for this test cost.
-Please also be reminded that you should serve sufficient time for the testing procedure, TBHK is not responsible for late shipment or penalty which is due
to the testing failure, if there are any.
- Any enquiry issue, please contact TB HKO General Technical Manager – Ryan Lau (rlau@https://www.wendangku.net/doc/f518156651.html,)
XRF testing for finish product
- once the first round of finished product is come out from production, our QC
will pull it out (all styles in full colorway) with tagging our QC hanger.
Then factory need to send to HK ITS for product XRF test.
HK ITS will perform a quick XRF screening on restricted chemical in which
the sample will NOT be destroyed if the test is passed.
The PASSED sample will be returned to factory after screening.
If the test is failed, the sample will be cut for detailed chemical tests.
The process acts as the final gate of Tory Burch to ensure our products
can meet regulations in various countries.
INSPECTION REQUIREMENT
Inspection arrangement
- all inspection date must arrange and pass 7 days prior of vessel on-board date
- Penalty will be arise if late booking or failure on inspection which lead to miss the vessel on-board date.
- all vessel booking must be according to the shipping on-board date stated in the PO.
QC file
Factory should submit QC file for inspection, all materials should be pulled out
from bulk.
Please MUST issue QC file per group, not per style. It needs 3 sets, TB HKO will sign back 1set to factory for our QC inspection and 1set keep in TB HKO and 1set
send to NY for reference.
1. Must indicate TB PO number, total qty and ship date on cover. 2. All materials (body/trims/lining...) hardware, thread, hangtag, UPC sticker, care label & brand label (if any), H/W data base sheet, BOM with final comment, photo images, official PO and all passed ITS test report has to be included on QC file 3. the size of all swatches on QC file must 6"x6" at least (A4 is preferred) 4. all bulk material test report must enclosed into QC file ** Please see the format and example on Appendix. 1 Inspection booking form 1. Inspection booking must be sent us before 7 working days of inspection, all goods MUST BE 100% completed with packaging. Any inspection requested less than 7 working days before you require might be rejected. 2. Inspection booking form should be sent to Dora (TChan@https://www.wendangku.net/doc/f518156651.html,), copy to Cely (ApBaltazar@https://www.wendangku.net/doc/f518156651.html,) and our Production team. 3. Inspection booking revised/cancellation must be sent us before 4 working days of inspection at least 4. Charge will be applied for all missed, skipped and delayed inspections and for all re-inspections fee will be USD 100 per man day plus expense. ** Please see the format on Appendix. 2 The 3rd party inspection requirement All Handbags and SLGs need to do the third party 100% inspection and x-ray test process for all BULK shipment for JAPAN (Plant 15). All Handbags and SLGs need to do the third party 100% inspection for all BULK shipment for KOREA (Plant 8) and Hong Kong (Plant 9). We appointed to "Tian Ying Inspection Co Ltd" Contact to Connie: dg202@https://www.wendangku.net/doc/f518156651.html, be our 3rd party inspection company In Guangdong area. TB HKO will pay the inspection cost and x-ray cost for as per PO units for these special plants, all extra inspection units and fail x-ray units, FTY need to settle the payment with our appointed inspection company directly. 3rd party guidelines 1. Tian Ying (TY) will continue inspect quantities 100units and up, based on by plant and by PO. 2. Factory will make booking with TY 7 days in advance. Any changes can be made 4 days before the required date. 3. When making booking with TY, please book based on PO quantities which TB continue will bear the costs for 1st inspection. 4. Within 48 hours of booking, TY will respond when and how many inspectors schedule to be present. 5. Factory will prepare the 100% qty for inspection by plant 8,9,15. For handbags/SLG, they will be 80% and eventually get to 100% ready. TY Inspectors will withdrawal inspection if it is not prepared. In this case happened, the cost of the inspection TB will bear and it will count as 1st inspection. 6. All re-inspections, TY will direct invoice to factories. 7. Provide TY inspectors transportation and meals for inspection. If TY inspectors arranged transportation will be flat fee RMB500, also meals will be 10RMB per head. 8. When TY QA found 30% defects during inspection, it will immediately stop. It will count as the 1st inspection and TB will bear the costs. 9. TY will seal box at the factory level. 10. Japan order will perform xray inspection or metal detector where the factory in RTW has a machine in a good working condition. TY inspectors will do this while in factory. 11. TY will have a hand written report at the end of inspection with have factory and his inspectors initial. The written report will indicate pass / reject. 12. No minimum charge base Complaint / Claim Any wrong UPC lable stick on the goods which is ship into IDS for plant 8, 9 and 15. We then require IDS to change the original vendor’s UPC label or affix the new one with the vendor supply them the correct one. For doing this task, IDS is charging us USD0.46 per label with a min US$200 per shipment.