(完整版)Marrakech马拉喀什见闻(中英)
Marrakech 马拉喀什见闻
1、As the corpse went past the flies left the restaurant table in a cloud and rushed after it, but they came back a few minutes later. 尸体被抬过去的时候，成群的苍蝇嗡嗡地飞离了餐馆的饭桌，尾随尸体去，几分钟后又嗡嗡地飞了回来。
2、The little crows of mourners - all me and boys, no women - threaded their way across the marker place between the piles of pomegranates and the taxis and the camels, wailing a short chant over and over again. What really appeals to the flied is that the corpses here are never put into coffins; they are merely wrapped in a piece of ray and carried on a rough wooden bier on the shoulders of four friends. When the friends get to the burying-ground they hack an oblong hole afoot or two deep, dump the body in it and fling over it a little of the dried-up, lumpy earth, which is like broken brick. No gravestone, no name, no identifying mark of any kind. The burying-ground is merely a huge waste of hummocky earth. Like a derelict building-lot. After a month or two no one can even be certain where his own relatives are buried.
一支人数不多的送葬队伍-其中老老小小全是男的，没有女人-挤过一堆堆的石榴，穿行在出租车和骆驼之间，迂回着穿过市场，嘴里还一遍遍地哀号着一支短促的悲歌。真正令苍蝇感兴趣的是这里的尸体从来都不装进棺材，而是只用一块破布裹着，放在一副粗糙的木制担架上，有死者的四位
朋友抬去送葬。达到坟场后，朋友们首先挖出一块一两英尺深的长方形的坑，将尸体扔入坑中，再在上面丢一些像碎砖头一样的干土块。没有墓碑，没有留名，也没有任何身份标志，坟场只不过是一片巨大的如同一块废弃的建筑工地般土丘林立的荒原。一两个月之后，就谁也找不到自己亲人的坟墓之处了。
3、Whe n you walk through a tow n like this -two hun dred thousa nd inhabitants of whom at least twenty thousand own literally nothing except the rags they sta nd op in -whe n you see how the people live, and still more how easily they die, it is always difficult to believe that you are walking among human beings. All colonial empires are in reality foun ded upon this fact. The people have brow n faces -besides, there are so many o them! Are they really the sane flesh as your self? Do they even have names? Or are they merely a kind of undifferentiated brown stuff, about as individual as bees or coral insects? They rise out of the earth, they sweat and starve for a few years, and then they sink back into the nameless mounds of the graveyard and nobody notices that they are gone. And even the graves themselves soon fade back into the soil. Sometimes, out for a walk as you break your way through the prickly pear, you notice that it is rather bumpy underfoot, and only a certain regularity in the bumps tells you that you are walking over skeletons.
当你徒步走过这样的城镇-在20万当地居民中，至少有2万人除了罩在身
上的一身破布外，其他一无所有-当你看到这些人如何生存，又如何轻易地
死去时，你永远难以相信自己是在人类中穿行。但事实上，这正是所有殖民帝国赖以建立的基础。这些人有着棕色的脸孔-而且，他们人数众多！他们果真和你一样是人类吗？他们也有名有姓吗？或者他们只是一种棕色的、像蜜蜂或珊瑚虫那样难以区分的生物呢？他们生于土地，挥汗如雨，忍饥挨饿地过上几年过后，就被埋到坟场里不知名的坟堆下。没有人注意到他们的离去，甚至这些无名坟堆本身也很快会变成一片平地。有时，当你外出散步穿过仙人掌丛时，你会注意到脚下的土地格外不平，只有这些有规则的突起的土包才会告诉你：你正踩在死人骷髅的上面。
4、I was feeding one of the gazelles in the public gardens. 在公园里，我正在给一只瞪羚喂食。
5、Gazelles are almost the only animals that look good to eat when they are still alive, in fact, one can hardly look at their hindquarters without thinking of a mint sauce. They gazelle I was feeding seemed to know that this thought was in my mind, for though it took the piece of bread I was holding out it obviously did not like me. It nibbled rapidly at the bread, then lowered its head and tried to butt me, then took another nibble and then butted again. Probably its idea was that if it could drive me away the bread would somehow remain hanging in mid-air. 瞪羚几乎
是唯一一种活时就让人觉得很美味的动物。实际上，光是看
到它的两条后腿就会令人联想到薄荷酱。我正在喂食的这只瞪羚几乎已经看出我的这点心思，尽管它叼走了我手上的面包，但它显然对我这个人并没有好感。它迅速地轻咬了一口面包，然后低下头，试图用脑袋顶我，然后又啃了口面包，又顶了一次。它大概以为，如果把我撵跑，面包仍会在半空
中。
6、An Arab navy working on the path nearby lowered his heavy hoe and sidled slowly towards us. He looked from the gazelle to the bread and from the bread to the gazelle, with a sort of quiet amazement, as though he had never seen anything quite like this before. Finally he said shyly in French: “I could eat some of that bread. ” 在附近小路上干活的一个阿拉伯民工放下笨重的锄头，慢慢地侧着身子走向我们。他那诧异的目光从瞪羚移向面包，又从面包移向瞪羚，好像他是第一次见到这样的情形。最后他用法语怯怯的问道：“那面包我能吃点吗？”
7、I tore off a piece and he stowed it gratefully in some secret place under his rages. This man is an employee of the municipality. 我撕下一片面包，他感激涕零地把面包收在破衣服下的隐蔽地方。这个人是市政当局的一名雇工。
8、When you go through the Jewish quarters you gather some idea of what the medieval ghettoes were probably like. Under their Moorish rulers the Jew were only allowed to own land in certain restricted areas, and after centuries of this kind of treatment they have ceased to bother about overcrowding. Many of the streets are a good deal less than six feet wide, the houses are completely windowless, and sore-eyed children cluster everywhere in unbelievable numbers, like clouds of flied. Down the centre of the street there is generally running a little river of urine. 当你经过犹太人居住区时，你可能就会了解中世纪的犹太人区大概是个什么样
子。在摩尔人的统治下，犹太人只允许在几个规定的区域内拥有土地，而经历过几个世纪这样的待遇后，犹太人已不再为过度拥挤而头痛了。这儿的许多街道还不及六英尺宽；而房子则没有窗户；眼睛红肿的孩子成群结队，像一群群的苍蝇，四处可见，多得令人难以置信。沿着街中心向下走，往往尿流成河。
9、In the bazaar huge families of Jews, all dressed in the long black robe and little black skull-cap, are working in dark fly-infested booths that look like caves. A carpenter sits cross-legged at a prehistoric lathe, turning chair-legs at lightning speed. He works the lathe with a bow in his right hand and guides the chisel with his left foot, and thanks to a lifetime of sitting in this position his left leg is warped out of shape. At his side his grandson, aged six, is already starting on the simpler parts of the job.
在集市上，一大家一大家的犹太人都穿着黑色长袍，头上戴着黑色便帽，在看起来如同洞穴一般光线暗淡、苍蝇遍布的货摊里干活。一个木工盘腿坐在一架古老的车窗旁，速度极快地旋制着椅子腿。他右手拿弓开动车床，左手引动凿子。由于长期都保持这样的坐姿，他的左腿已经弯曲变形了。他六岁的孙子则坐在旁边，已经开始帮着做些简单的活了。
10、I was just passing the coppersmiths 'booths when somebody noticed that I was lighting a cigarette. Instantly, from the dark holes all round, there was a frenzied rush of Jews, many of them old grandfathers with flowing grey beards, all clamouring for a cigarette. Even a blind man
somewhere at the back of one of the booths heard a rumour of cigarettes and came crawling out, groping in the air with his hand. In about a minute I had used op the whole packet. None of these people, I suppose, works less than twelve hours a day, and every one of them looks on a cigarette as a more or less impossible luxury. 当我正要走过铜匠铺子时，有人注意到我正点着一支香烟。刹那间，大批疯狂的犹太人从四面八方的黑洞窟里钻了出来，其中还有很多胡子斑白的老人，他们都争着要讨支香烟。甚至一位盲人也从铺子后面爬了出来，手在空中胡乱摸索着。不到一分钟的时间，我的整包香烟就全分完了。我想这些人中没有谁每天工作少于12 个小时，但每个人都视一根香烟为一种无法承担的奢侈品。
11、As the Jews live in self-contained communities they follow the same trades as the Arabs, except for agriculture. Fruit sellers, potters, silversmiths, blacksmiths, butchers, leather-workers, tailors, water-carriers, beggars, porters —whichever way you look you see nothing but Jews. As a matter of fact there are thirteen thousand of
them, all living in the space of a few acres. A good job Hitler wasn 't here. Perhaps he was on his way, however. You hear the usual dark rumours about Jews, not only from the Arabs but from the poorer Europeans.
由于犹太人生活在一个自给自足的社会里，他们与阿拉伯人从事一样的行业，农业除外。他们当中有水果贩子、陶制工、银匠、铁匠、屠夫、皮匠、
裁缝、运水工、乞丐、脚夫等-放眼望去，到处都是犹太
人。事实上，在这块仅几亩大的土地上，竟然生活着13000 个犹太人。幸运的是，希特勒并未光顾过这里。或许他曾经想过来这里。你常听到的有关犹太人的不利传言，不仅来自阿拉伯人，还来自较穷的欧洲人。
12、“Yes mon vieux, they tool my job away from me and gave it to a Jew. Tee Jews! They 're the real rulers of this country, you know.
They 'e got all the money. They control the banks, finance - everything. ”
“老兄啊，他们夺走我的工作给了犹太人。这些犹太人啊！你知道吧，他们才是这个国家真正的统治者。他们卷走了全部的钱，他们还控制了银行、财政-一切的一切。”
13、“But ”, I said, “isn'tit a fact that the average Jew is a labourer working for about a penny an hour? ”
但是”我说道，“事实上一般的犹太人不是都在为每小时一便士的
微博工钱而劳作吗？
14、“Ah, that 's only for show! They 're all money lenders really. They 're cunning, the Jews. ”
“啊，那只不过是装装样子。他们其实都是放债的债主，犹太人狡诈得很呢。”
15、In just the same way, a couple of hundred years ago, poor old women used to be burned for witchcraft when they could not even work